trees of antiquity
Autumn kisses the air with cool nights and warm days. Fall colors peek through last remnants of summer’s green. Drive our mountain roads in autumn to see California’s Fall Glory, and soon you spot row after row of orchard...Apple Orchards!
For more than 140 years Tuolumne County has been home to apple farmers. At one time more than 200 apple ranches dotted our hills and mountains. Settlers brought apple trees from their faraway homelands. and planted on steep slopes in rocky soil. Follow the thread of our old mountain by-ways. Tucked here and there you’ll see the last vestiges of abandoned homesteads, marked by rows of old apple trees, hidden by towering pines and cedars.
Today in Tuolumne County you’ll find four busy, active family farms flourishing...all part of our Farms of Tuolumne County family. Today our local apple farmers work just as busily as their ancestors. Throughout the year the chores of an apple farmer go on: Pruning, planting new trees, cleaning orchards, protecting buds from frost, warding off invading critters, encouraging healthy pollinators, irrigating, and watching over those precious fruits as they mature and ripen. And the ultimate reward: Harvesting a heavy, delicious crop to bring to market.
COVER’S APPLE RANCH—19211 Cherokee Road, Tuolumne, CA 95379 (209)928-4689
Of course, many Tuolumne County residents and visitors have fond memories of days at Cover’s Apple Ranch. (By the way, that is pronounced “Coh-ver,” rhyming with “over.”) Formerly Sonka’s, and before that Walter’s, and before that Ralph’s, the property between Tuolumne and Soulsbyville has proven perfect for apples.
For more than 100 years that same hillside on Cherokee Road has brought in millions of crisp apples. Even though the farm has changed hands and names many times, the quality of those apples has remained. Ironically the ranch was owned by Rudy and Esther Cover, and was called Cover’s Apple Ranch from 1959 until 1971. That’s when the Sonka family purchased the land, and changed the name. During its years with the Sonka family and later with the Bomgarden family under the same name, Sonka’s Apple Ranch expanded to add a delicious bakery shop where locals and visitors alike could take home the famous Mile High Pie. In 1987 a miniature scaled railroad was introduced. And there we have it: Tuolumne County’s first and foremost Agri-Tourism destination was born!
In 1998 Rudy and Esther’s son, Joe Cover, bought the ranch again. With six sons and a strong family rooted in their faith, the Cover’s set out to bring the ranch to ultimate glory—Cover’s Apple Ranch! For two years the Covers enjoyed an apple heyday as their farm gained in popularity. But in 2000 a horrible fire roared through the bakery shop, almost destroying all the years of hard work. The whole community was heart-broken. Not only had we lost our beautiful farm, but we were all concerned about the Cover family.
But the hard work of many hands and hearts prevailed. In 2002, Cover’s Apple Ranch re-opened with a larger bake shop and restaurant on the opposite side of the road. The Cover Express train was relocated nearby, and at long last the 100 year-old barn was restored so that a farm animal petting zoo could be offered.
Today thousands of people visit Cover’s Apple Ranch each year. In fact, this year Cover’s Apple Ranch was a favorite stop on our own Farms of Tuolumne County Farm Tour Day, held on August 1st. Family gatherings, school field trips, reunions, breakfast get-togethers, car clubs and motorcycle clubs—All make the ten-mile journey from Sonora for a piece of yummy pie and a little peace of the Earth. For a small fee visitors can take a ride on The Cover Express, a steam train, which runs through tunnels and around the pond—Saturdays only. Families can feed the farm critters or play in the treehouses. Often Autumn is marked with the construction of a Hay Maze where children scamper all about! Plus, shoppers will be lured in by the delightful offerings in the gift shop. Cover’s staff will also help assemble gift baskets that are brimming with all kinds of fun goodies, including the delicious jams and applesauce, made from apples grown on the ranch. And don’t forget the fudge...mouth-watering, for sure!
Cover’s is now host to many annual events. In Spring you can mark your calendar for the Apple Blossom Breakfast, held in April with a hearty farm breakfast, hay rides and a chance to see that first burst of promise, the blossoms that are harbingers of delicious fruits to come. Just a few weeks later, come back to Cover’s in early May for Tuolumne County Farm Bureau’s “Agstravaganza,” which is an on-going celebration of farm and ranch culture. Farmers and ranchers from the community bring together antique farming equipment, give presentations and demonstrations, and work to educate our community about the vitality of modern farming in Tuolumne County. Coming up this month will be Cover’s Annual Barbecue, which will be held on october 17th, 2009, running from 10:00am until 3:00pm.
All Summer the Covers are busy selling their baked goods, jams, jellies and fresh-baked breads at the Sonora Farmers’ Market. On many a Saturday you can spot locals and visitors grabbing a Cuppa Joe from Mother Lode Coffee Roasting Company, then carefully selecting the perfect Cover’s turnover...Ah, what a breakfast!
Of course, Autumn brings harvest. More than 100 years later, fhe orchard still produces premium apples. And there is a nice selection of heirloom apples, not readily available elsewhere: Paragon and Stamin Winesaps, Arkansas Black and Early Blaze, along with popular Red and Golden Delicious.
The Cover’s good neighbors at Tuolumne Me-Wuk Rancheria and Black Oak Casino are just around the bend. So, at Lunch Hour those Cover tables are full, and the menu is rich with yummy offerings. This writer must confess: For five months I enjoyed working at the Rancheria. At least twice a week I pulled into Cover’s convenient Drive-Up Window (open at M-F @6:00 AM & Sat @8:00AM) to get a piece of yummy quiche and the very best molasses cookies ever! Plus Friday Night Dinners are a great evening out at Cover’s Ranch Dining Room with a new menu “home-cooking” each week. The Cover’s Kitchen recommends that folks call ahead for reservations: (209)928-4689.
But sometimes isn’t it just too far to drive all the way to Tuolumne? In 2008 the Cover Family solved that problem. Now Sonorans and Sonora visitors can feast of a host of delicious Cover products and many other of our FOTC producers’ goods by stopping by Cover’s Downtown Market, located at 635 South Washington Street, Sonora, CA (209)770-0375. Deli sandwiches, Cover’s apple juice and cider, frozen Cover’s fruit or savory pies, Diestel turkey cuts, and fresh produce in season are easy to find right in town.
A story about Cover’s Apple Ranch would not be complete without mentioning why this important agri-tourism business is NEVER OPEN ON SUNDAY! The Cover family, along with many other long-time local families, is a part of the Old Brethren Church. At one time OBC was connected to the Old German Baptist Brethren, but separated to form a new religious community. Their simple lifestyle gives comfort and adds a sense of reverence to the rest of our lives: The women wearing long dresses with capes and bonnets with no adornment or make-up: the men with long beards, no moustaches. Girls in long dresses with long braids, and boys looking like boys everywhere. Members of the Old Brethren Church live a quiet life outside of Mainstream America, devoted in their faith. The rest of us are grateful for a chance to reflect on our own commitments of faith as we observe this humble community, walking in our lives every day.
On any trip to Tuolumne County, please include Cover’s Apple Ranch or Cover’s Downtown Market on your “Must Do List.” You’ll take home sweet memories along with sweet (and savory) delicacies.
ROSEFIELD ORCHARDS, located near Sierra Village on Bottini Ranch Road. P.O. Box 143, Sierra Village, CA 95346 (209)770-3522. Email: erosefield@earthlink.net
Farms of Tuolumne County has a brand new member, and we couldn’t be more surprised or happier! Thanks to the diligent work of the Rosefield family, one of our oldest apple farms is flourishing again and working to bring sustainable agricultural practices into prominence.
First homesteaded by Italian immigrants, the approximately 30-acre Bottini Apple Ranch began in the late 1860’s. Most of their trees were planted between 1870 and 1900 at a time when hundreds of apple ranches dotted these Sierra Nevada Mountains.
Nestled in a tiny mountain valley, creeks flow through the ranch sending icy mountain snow run-off to the Tuolumne River. While some moiled for gold, the Bottini family planted, tended, harvested and carried apples to local markets. After a while the demand for local apples declined as the Gold Rush waned. But the ranch managed to stay in the Bottini family for many years.
Then more than 40 years ago the Rosefield family purchased the ranch and slowly things began to improve. David and Elizabeth Rosefield lived full-time on the ranch, and raised their family on the property. Sons Kit and Gordon and sister Autumn grew up learning about the orchard, helping their parents as they slowly nurtured antique heirloom apples back into production. During that time they trucked their heirloom fruit to markets in the San Francisco Bay Area.
The Rosefields’ story centers on a crucial issue that faces almost every American farm family. Eventually the Rosefield children moved into their own adult lives and careers with none of the three choosing farming as a path. In 1997 the work of the farm slowed down as David and Elizabeth realized that they needed more help. All of that on-going maintenance became more than they could do alone as they began to age. Soon the orchards seem to fall asleep for a period of time as routine tasks were neglected.
But all through that period the Rosefield children did not loose their love for that ranch. They were just too busy! During frequent visits to the farm, they continued to help as they could and to have lengthy conversations with Mom and Dad on the philosophy of healthy farming practices.
Finally about 5 years ago Kit and Evelyn returned home with a renewed commitment to the family farm. Kit had spent his career working in Environmental Waste Water Management. Armed with that knowledge, experience Kit and his devoted wife, Evelyn, along with Kit's brother Gordon, now live full time at Rosefield Orchards.
Sadly David Rosefield passed away in 2008. While his loss has been difficult for the family, each one takes courage knowing that David had shared his vision, his knowledge and his love over the years. With a strength that you find when you put a shovel in your hand, the Rosefields kept working to restore this mountain paradise.
Many of the Rosefield Orchards trees are more than 100 years old. Growing deep in a river canyon where Sugar Pine Creek meets the north fork of the Tuolumne River, the orchards are surrounded by virgin forest. Heritage Lady Apples, Red Astrakhans, Sweet Winesap, Yellow Bartlett Pears, vintage Italian Prune Plums, along with Red and Golden Delicious and Asian Pears, each with distinctively unique flavors, now flourish in an organic environment, free from pesticides.
A growing trend in agriculture is to restore heirloom varieties of many fruits and vegetables. Seed banks, budding and grafting techniques are helping small farmers to revitalize the unique qualities of the foods our great grandparents ate. The Rosefields see their role in that revitalization on their farm. Working with such groups as the Sonoma Antique Apple Nursery, the Rosefields have budded original bud wood from their own antique trees to bring those varieties back into production.
As Evelyn Rosefield explains, “Lady Apples date back to the original 20 varieties of apples that came from ancient Rome. Seeds can also be traced back to 17th century France during the reign of Louis XIII.” She adds, “The Ladies make good cider or eating apples because of their delicately sweet taste.”
As this ranch begins to introduce its name to local residents, it’s worth mentioning that Bay Area apple fans are once more enjoying their produce as their apples cater to the growing number of “foodies,” devotées of the Slow Food Movement. Of course, “foodies” love to try new and unusual choices. One such apple from Rosefields, the Red Astrakhan, has quite a pedigree. Originally from Russia, it was imported to the U.S. from Sweden by way of England in 1835. Once a popular apple for home use, it is now proving its worth again for its superior culinary qualities. On a recent trip, this early harvest apple was quick to find at Nature’s Whole Food Depot.
So, where can locals purchase Rosefield Orchards’ apples? Along with Nature’s Whole Food Depot, Upsprout Farm has been bringing their apples to the Tuolumne Farmers’ Market on Wednesday afternoons and evenings, located at Tuolumne Memorial Park in Tuolumne City. That will be something to remember for next year, now that our Farmers’ Market Season is over for 2009. But there is good news: Until mid-October Upsprout Farm will offer Rosefield Orchards fruit at the Sonora Farmers’ Market! As word gets out, locals will enjoy Rosefield Orchards’ Lady Apples, a popular eating and cider apple along with all their other heirloom varieties.
Together the whole family works to continue father David’s dream of using environmentally sound farming practices, preserving the natural landscape and protecting the north fork of the Tuolumne River. With inspiration and courage the Rosefield family continues their long-range vision of building a stronger presence for sustainable agriculture in Tuolumne County. It looks like Rosefield Orchards will be making its mark on our local farming community.
SIERRA GLEN RANCH—15665 Big Hill Road, Sonora, CA 95370. (209)532-2534. Email: info@sierraglenranch.com
On my first visit to Tuolumne County in 1971, my hosts took me for a leisurely scenic drive on the twisting mountain roads of Big Hill. As wove and wended our way through the rich forestlands, we suddenly came around a wide curve. There it was! Sierra Glen. To this day the ranch is one of my favorite spots in the county, one that I always want to share with my own guests.
Settled in at 3500 foot elevation, this 340-acre farm is another one of Tuolumne County’s early farms. Now the old farmhouse stands proudly in the middle of this mountain paradise where hundreds of neatly planted rows of trees gently roll out before you, then encircle that old house. The long driveway welcomes visitors, who are already pulling out their cameras to capture this pastoral gem. Off in the distance is the ranch’s pond where visitors are sure to spot a crane standing watch over the frogs.
Sierra Glen is one of Tuolumne County’s most memorable Agri-Tourism destinations, especially in Autumn during the rich apple harvest. Aromas surround you: First the cedar and “mountain misery” to remind you that you are truly in the Sierra Nevadas, no mistaking that. Then the fresh, crisp smell of those apples gets your mind ready to Crunch! And just as quickly your thoughts switch to grab the distinct aroma of freshly baking pies and cookies...truly a spicey yum!
If you decide to visit Sierra Glen this Fall, please take note that the Phoenix Lake Bridge is now closed, due to a little mishap with some dynamite! Instead, take Longeway Road, going the round-about way (Directions at Sierra Glen’s website). Or for the more adventurous types, head to Columbia State Historic Park, and find your way to the Columbia side of Big Hill Road. Even though the road curves and twists up narrow a steep, narrow road, that same road will eventually take you to this wonderful destination. Just in case you’re on your motorcycle, save room in those saddlebags for fruit, jams, jellies and a pastry or two.
Bring a picnic and get dessert in the Bake Shop. Take a Hay-Ride all around the ranch, or have a grand time in the Hay-Maze. If you happen up to Sierra Glen on a week-day, you just might share your time with one of the many busloads of school children, who flock up each Autumn to celebrate apples in this picturesque place.
Farmer and Ranch Manager Hal Denton invites visitors to Sierra Glen from June through December. In early Summer folks can enjoy berry-picking: Olallieberrries, boysenberries, black raspberries, and black satins. Then come the cherries: Bing, Montgomery and Rainier. Late Summer ushers in delicious stone fruits: Nectarines and Peaches. Finally, as Summer is waning and Fall touches the air, it’s time for the Pome Fruits: Pears, Asian Pears and all of Sierra Glen’s 22 varieties of Apples!
But, of course, it is so important to stop and take a breath...because Sierra Glen also grows lovely, sweet Christmas Trees! A cut-your-own operation, the staff will help you get your tree all set to go home for the Holidays. And this year, families can enjoy a little extra time with Jolly Old St. Nick! He has scheduled some extra stops to Sierra Glen Apple Ranch.
Another possibility for you and your family at Sierra Glen is their Special Events opportunities. Weddings have become increasingly popular at this location, now established as one of Tuolumne County’s premier wedding venues. One Sierra Glen wedding was recently given prominent attention in a Central Valley magazine on wedding planning. Plus, the Sierra Glen staff can help brides and grooms with all the necessary arrangements for their glorious day. And if a wedding, then why not a family reunion, or class reunion family day, or a church get-together?
Recently a Sacramento antique car club traveled to Sierra Glen Apple Ranch for a day’s excursion. Farmer Hal Denton and his crew planned a barbecue for the visitors. Then they opened up the event to locals and other visitors, just as the Autumn season was beginning to take hold Auto clubs, motorcycle clubs, bicycling clubs might want to take a long look at Sierra Glen as a destination. The drive is not only immersed in natural beauty, but Big Hill Road and the usual access routes are just fun to drive! Sierra Glen offers such gorgeous surroundings for just about any occasion, and the ranch’s staff is always willing to help plan successful events.
Living here in Tuolumne County, many of us take our home and its amenities for granted. Sometimes we need a gentle nudge or two from “outsiders,” “flatlanders,” or “beach bums” to be reminded about our own treasures. Sometimes we need to look up long enough to read and hear what others say about a place like Sierra Glen. So, here’s a little note found at Yelp.com, accompanied by 5-Stars: “This is a special place. Worth visiting if you are just in the mood to cruise from the bay area and explore Gold Country.” Thanks, Thighmaster M! You said it!
And like my own early memories still affirm, Sierra Glen Apple Ranch is a lovely jewel in our community’s crown. I will never forget that first glimpse, that first catch of my breath. It still happens whenever I drive Big Hill Road...There it is! Sierra Glen.
So, as I used to tell my students, “We’ve come to the end of our lesson. I hope you’ve learned information today that you can use tomorrow.” Tuolumne County’s agricultural history would not be complete without noting our apple farms. Not only do they provide us with delicious, crisp delights each year from late Summer until late Autumn, their stories add to our rich heritage and landscape.
Folksinger Kate Wolf once wrote a song, “The Lilac and the Apple Tree.” The lyrics tell a story....”A lilac bush and an apple tree were standing in the woods; out on a hill overlooking the town where once a farmhouse stood.”
Here in Tuolumne County we’re blessed that the apple trees still stand around our farmhouses. And we hope these farms will continue to thrive for future generations.
If you’d like to learn more about the many varieties of apples that are grown in Tuolumne County, please visit these websites:
Burchell Nursery: http://www.burchellnursery.com/
Dave Wilson Nursery:http://www.davewilson.com/
Trees of Antiquity: http://www.treesofantiquity.com/
Before we close, let’s give a salute to one special group who really makes all of this happen. Were it not for one hard-working, industrious corps of helpers, none of our apples would be here today: Hooray for the Bees!
And with them, a special nod to our local beekeepers, Gold Country Honey Farms, owned and operated by Dave and Kendra Pish, and FOTC members. Their hives travel to many of our local orchards to help guarantee that all this will HAPPEN!
Written by storyteller & Farm Fan B.Z. Smith
B.Z. is an Associate Member of Farms of Tuolumne County, helping to support small family farms in our Sierra Foothill community. Become an Associate Member Today—Be an Advocate for California’s Agricultural Heritage, right here in Tuolumne County!
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